My experience is that the $20 bottles tend to be made to fit into <50 archetypes. The producers are trying to fit into a specific flavor profile, and are very good at hitting it. There are variations, but usually I would think of those variations as "imperfections," not as "character."

Once you get to $50 and above, they are trying to show you something unique, perhaps an expression or a particular flavor they like or an expression of the local terroir.