Before you get a tenured position, you're basically stuck in the publish-or-perish rat race and when you eventually get a tenure, you now have an enormous responsibility towards the younger non-tenured reseachers of your department, who will eventually lose their job if the department isn't “productive” enough, so unless you're a complete insensitive assh*le, you'll still be under pressure.
Some people love academia. My PhD mentor is as happy as a pig in mud in his academic role. He only has to teach every other semester, and his course/lecture plans are solidified such that all he has to do is recite his notes beside slides and answer questions. He has to schlep to the classroom two days out of the week in these semesters, but his classes are back-to-back so that even those days are spent mostly where he likes. All of the rest of his time is spent happily “doing research” in a domain in which he’s a world expert. Publishing is a specialized sausage-production manufacturing domain, but if you enjoy the subject matter like he does (and I do) it can be a low-effort byproduct of effectively playing with code and ideas.
At my research university, even associate professors (not sure about the details of what’s tenure track) don’t have to teach that much. There are actually “teaching professors” here who’s sole responsibility is teaching without research pressure, and they still only teach two classes per semester (admittedly, those classes might have 300 students).