Self hosted Matomo/piwik is pretty good. You probably want to make sure it's on servers in the EU owned by a EU company (Hetzner, OVH, Griscale, etc). Alternatively you can configure it in a way that avoids collecting PII [1] (which also removes the need for consent popup, privacy policy etc). You won't get much info about repeat visitors that way, but I imagine it's quite usable for many use cases.

1: https://matomo.org/faq/new-to-piwik/how-do-i-use-matomo-anal...