I’m not sure that Google Maps is the best example of something that should work well without JS.

True, but even Google Maps could work without Javascript... It may not be as easy to use without it though.

I still remember the first time I used google maps. It was the first example I ever saw of what was then called AJAX, and it blew my mind. Without javascript, google maps would have been the same as mapquest (or any other mapping sites from that era): a full page refresh to move or zoom on the map. Javascript was the differentiator that made google maps the winner.

I'm not saying the experience is as good, but sometimes you need or want to browse without Javascript (at least some people).