While it's not entirely unobtrusive, especially on mobile, it's far better than similar forms on most other sites that usually take up the bottom half of the screen, or block the content entirely behind a modal dialog.
> As well as "Continue to site", it has buttons for "Policies", ...
Those others aren't buttons, but links, and small ones. The most prominent element is the single button that dismisses the dialog and is actually safe to click. If you've seen most other consent forms, rejecting cookies (if possible at all) is usually done via a small link next to a prominent "Accept all" button and other such dark patterns.
So this is a great UX improvement, though I agree with you that all these forms are obnoxious and we should get rid of them. Unfortunately it's the best we currently have to mitigate this abuse legally (at least in the EU).
Also, I'd be fine with some non-essential cookies for e.g. analytics, as long as this is not shared with 3rd parties, so no Google Analytics and such, but few sites implement it that way.
Though TBH all this feels like privacy theater. There are more sophisticated ways than cookies for tracking users that aren't being discussed nearly as much, yet are probably already widely used.
That's exactly how this one works for me. The prominent "Continue to site" is "Accept all" in disguise, and to opt out you need to click on the little "Preferences" button/link. It's the same dark pattern as usual, not a UX improvement.
They just started showing up more often after, because at this point they also had to notify you/have you opt in into sharing your data.
Cookie pop-ups need to die. Non-essential cookies aren't to "improve your experience", they're usually for invasive tracking, and if a site only uses strictly necessary cookies, even the GDPR doesn't require explicit consent.