It says a lot about the web that such things are necessary just to have an experience that isn't dogshit awful.

I agree. I sort of forget about it until I'm using someone else's browser. I'm surprised that people are okay with it.

I wonder which is a bigger business advantage: a website that's optimised for tracking and engagement, or a website that offers a frictionless experience.

I built the latter [1]. It wasn't a strategic decision, just a personal preference. However I realise that a fast, straightforward website without SEO keyword soup, newsletter prompts, cookie notices, trackers, 4 MB of JavaScript and distractions is extremely valuable to the readers too. Even Google appreciates a fast, well-organised website.

I'm not sure if I could squeeze anything more out of my readership with any of those things. On the other hand, I have a feeling that when people see my domain in the search results, they might favour it over the others. I know I do for certain websites.

[1] https://allaboutberlin.com