This trade-off is not restricted to Lisp, but also applies to e.g. C++ template meta programming. Compilers have gotten betters with templates, but still debugging the more advanced usages of templates can become hellish. Codifying the features the meta programming supplies in the language itself or in well supported libraries means that error messages get better and many usage scenarios are documented on Stackoverflow.
I don't doubt your experience regarding Clojure vs JavaScript code bases, but this probably has to do with other reasons than the meta programming the original blog post is about?
Which is weird, because in most Lisps meta programming happens at compile time. It should be possible for tooling to just show you the expansion of any given macro invocation. In fact, when I used Clojure a decade ago, there was an Emacs command that would expand the macro invocation under your cursor, so you could see what code was actually being generated.
So I don't really think that's a fundamental limitation. I suspect it's more related to the fact that Lisps aren't especially popular, and don't get the attention from tooling that other languages do.
> Codifying the features the meta programming supplies in the language itself or in well supported libraries
But without the meta programming, those libraries might not actually be possible to write. You will either end up with a more dynamic interface (doing meta-stuff at runtime), or a clunkier and more verbose interface. I think being able to expand a macro invocation to see what it turns into is enough for all but the hairiest of macros.
Exactly. On common lisp, for example, it's just a keypress, and it has a "macro stepper" so it shows the first expansion possible, then the second expansion, and so on and so on... until you end up with compiler primitives!
I never inherited a Clojure-codebase that has been written during long duration, but I have digged around in a fair amount of Clojure-codebases that are open source, both user focused and libraries. Same with JavaScript. And I can say, as someone with more JS experience than Clojure, that the Clojure projects tend to be a lot easier to understand than the JS ones, probably not because of the language, but because of the habits that the language "forces" you into.