Curiously enough even using a command line Browser like lynx can be enlightening. You start to see all the crap.

I'd urge everybody to take a simple unstyled HTML page as a markup. If your page looks bad without styles, you are doing something wrong. If the navigation is cluttered and convoluted in unstyled mode you are doing something wrong.

If your page is less usable than a basic well structured HTML page, go back and make it a basic well structured HTML page and add styles from there.