I find erlang to be harder to read. Part of that is possibly because it encourages passing modules in non-intuitive way. If you want an example, try spending a day figuring out why erlang's TFTP module won't support PXE booting. You'll give up after about 2 hours because the code shuffles in dependencies between multiple modules.

Basically its problems, may be more cultural than syntatical, in that, it grew up in the C era, where you did things the C way. And now, it's 2020. Software development has changed. We have parsers that can make reasonable decisions about when and where statements end (and I don't mean javascript). Documentation is easier to make pretty, bad architecture models (like FactoryFactoryFactories) are understood and we know why they're bad. Code editors are smarter, and little things like "now you have a directory tree on the side of your editor" make a difference to how you're going to architect and organize your code for ergonomics. And Language theory things like "why you might want to not have a string preprocessor" are better understood.

In short, time has moved on, and in some ways, erlang hasn't. Luckily, the virtual machine is still fantastic (and getting better).