Re:Surf industry paradox: Surfing, by its nature, contradict...
by DanCarvajal on Friday February 07, 2020 @09:37AM
(#22266327)
I wonder how that came about, and how a culture like that could have come to persist into the 2020s?
My initial thought is to the limited range to actually peruse the sport, leading to a closer knit culture. It's coastal dependent and coast culture always has a distinct identity in my experience, more so than Mountain culture in my experience.
Surfers can be considered to live their life like any spiritual individual. Their _god_ is the ocean, their pursuit is happiness in the moment recognizing risk and danger is a necessary component for a full life.