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Re:How strong is your knot? by dragontamer on Friday January 03, 2020 @03:38PM (#21950080)
> We aren't typically just tying an overhand or figure 8 midline in a knot and pulling on the ends--I can't think of ANY place where that's useful. The closest thing I can think of is a stopper knot, and neither of these knots is ideal for that application.

I'll admit that I've mostly used this "useless knot" test methodology you're criticizing here. But in its defense, it is an easy to do micro-benchmark with consistent results.

I guess I could setup a more cohesive test to measure the strength in more "realistic" scenarios. That's really all it comes down to: the strength of the rope in whatever specific situation you're doing.

I'll note that 40lb-strength rated cotton twine is just strong enough to be useful, and just weak enough that a bad knot or two will cause the twine to snap under moderate usage. (Ex: Package Tie to support a box containing 20lb).

Re:How strong is your knot? by kerkeslager on Saturday January 04, 2020 @04:09AM (#21953828)
> I'll admit that I've mostly used this "useless knot" test methodology you're criticizing here. But in its defense, it is an easy to do micro-benchmark with consistent results.

That's fair, and it does prove that different knots affect strength differently. That's a base principle that is useful to know even if it doesn't get you far on its own.

With regards to your application: while it lacks the "finesse" of tying knots that give you just enough strength, simply getting stronger twine would solve this problem without the complexity.

In general, there's a whole lot of ways knots can fail. If you can solve the problem by just using stronger cord, that frees up mental cycles for dressing, avoiding slippage, effective communication, ease of untying, etc. If you're just tying up boxes do whatever you feel like doing. But for climbing, I'd rather have the rope be more than strong enough to do its job, and have those brain cycles for focusing on preventing other system failures.

Re:How strong is your knot? by KirinDave on Saturday January 04, 2020 @03:13PM (#21957141)
For what it's worth: lots of knot literature and lore cautions people about overhand knots as weaking the line more than other knots.

That's why I asked.