The notion of genetic ancestry is inherently fuzzy. What does the author think it means to be "Italian"? Humans didn't evolve in Italy, nobody is "from" there in a truly genetic sense.
On the other hand, some of the health information 23andme provides is significant and behavior-changing. I don't mean the "you have 5% higher risk of developing hangnails" trivia. I mean the "60% of people with your genetic factors develop deep vein thrombosis" warning - which a person I know found out, and immediately stopped taking hormonal birth control.
For me it was "no news is good news", but that's valuable information too. I consider 23andme a good service.
Greeks
Carthaginians
Romans
Germans/Franks/Vandals
Bizantines
Arabs
French (Normans)
Germans
French again (Angevins)
Spaniards (Aragonese first and later unified Spain)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Sicily
Even Vikings (briefly) ruled it: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Sicily#Viking_Age
So - from a DNA analysis - you can probably find traces in the population of practically every "race" that existed in the basin of the Mediterranean sea (including Europe, Africa and the middle East) and even part of northern Europe.
Some of them did; some of them didn't. When did humans stop evolving?
In re the "probably total junk" comment, that's in reference to this: "companies are popping up every day, promising to use your DNA for everything from figuring out what wine or marijuana varietals your genetics predispose you to, to what skin care regimen is best for you". And the quote is spot on. There may be research pointing vaguely in those directions, but the reality is far more complex. And the chances that the actual science will appropriately inform the recommendations give to you by startup companies built around trying to make money off telling you "facts" like these based on your genome, it will absolutely and without question translate to "junk". Even if they could make correct predictions, there would be so much more money in bending the truth just a bit to satisfy advertisers and affiliates, that the end result would be junk, not science.