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Re:Great White Sharks Are Terrified of Orcas by gerbilly on Saturday December 07, 2019 @10:00AM (#21730577)
Waves break in water depths approximately 1.3 times their height.

So if most surfers surf in waves up to about 6ft, the water depth below a surfer is only about 8 feet.

If the waves get bigger than that, it quickly thins out the crowds. On ten foot days, typically only a few people will be out.

See: https://magicseaweed.com/help/near-shore-effects/breaking-wa...

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