Exactly, CQRS gets such a bad rep because of all the pieces that (typically) surround it. But really as just a way of organizing code, it's so handy.

The freedom and flexibility to create your read models and write models the way they are needed just completely sidesteps a lot of design issues that creep up. Plus, it makes the code so easy to follow when everything follows the pattern; picking out where state changes happen becomes trivial for example.