A good test is: do you need to zoom in and then pan horizontally to be able to read the content?
On Android/Chrome, the experience is not bad. When you load the desktop site, it looks very small but you see the whole thing. Then you can zoom in and pan using your fingers... Not so different from how you use Google maps. It's just a tiny bit slower than on desktop; but everything on mobile is slower than on desktop anyway including typing.
If you're already loosely familiar with the site's UI, it's not difficult to use. Even if you have big finger, you can just zoom in first and then click. It's a quick two-step gesture which is easy to master.
Content monitizers are heavily incentivized to switch users from web to app.
So is this user-orginated or owner-pressured?
There's your problem