Yes, for a long time it's been the case that to run qmail you have to really really want to run qmail. That's why I put so much effort for so many years into cross-platform packages of qmail in pkgsrc, and that's why we have "Meeting all common needs with OS-provided packages" as an explicit goal for the notqmail project.
There were a lot of great things about qmail. I really liked the envdir and how secure it was. But eventually I found the attitude behind it very tiring and switched to Postfix, which is a really great program.