> [...] but are the current Google phones any less usable than other Androids for people who are keen to avoid going all in on Google services?

Paradoxically, they are way more usable. They are the only phones (on some Sony too, but with several caveats) where it's easy to compile and install your own AOSP.

Lots of security focused efforts aim at Pixels for this reason. See CopperheadOS and its successor [1].

With the advent of device independent ROMs (thanks to Treble) it will be a bit easier to run generic ROMs on any phone. But there are still many glitches [2].

[1] https://grapheneos.org/

[2] https://github.com/phhusson/treble_experimentations/wiki

The pixel phones (and the nexus phones before them) tend to be a little easier on those who unlock bootloaders and load custom ROMs. I use LineageOS on my Pixel, with OsmAnd maps and no Google services. https://lineage.microg.org/

It works quite well! Having not used 'normal' Android (anything that's not Lineage/Cyanogen) for years, I attempted to start out using this phone with the stock Google Android build. I disabled all the bundled crapware (Play Music, Play Movies, Play Games, YouTube) and they all kept re-enabling themselves. If you're looking for a device that will help you avoid Google at least a little bit, look at this page first. https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/

How's the camera on Pixels w/ AOSP roms? I haven't installed a custom ROM in years now, and my last experiences were on Samsung where custom ROM means destroying your camera's picture quality.

On Pixel and Nexus phones, the Google Camera app works properly if you have either microG or Google Play Services installed. If you're using microG, you'll need to install the Google Camera app manually:

https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/camera/

The camera quality and features are the same as in the stock ROM.

Google Camera is proprietary, but you can disable its internet access through the app settings (in LineageOS) or a firewall like AFWall+:

https://github.com/ukanth/afwall/

If you're using another camera app, then you'll lose Google Camera's optimized features. This may still be worth it if you prefer to use FOSS software.

I had a Pixel 2 XL and the camera quality was quite bad under non-Google ROMs.

The Pixels have a phone squeeze gesture (Active Edge) that can only be used to activate assistant. It can be turned off but it's otherwise pretty useless. Of course if you root you can make it do other things.

If you order it from Google, it's stock Android, so it's the most un-locked-down OEM OS you can get. This may not be the case if you buy it from a carrier.