For most parts of Rails, I agree. There is one very important one where I don't: ActiveRecord's internal behaviors are opaque enough at most levels where you care about your database to be fairly called "magic". Having to reverse-engineer ActiveRecord to make my database stop puking and to generate a make developers who know Rails but not databases not get upset that now the solution is insufficiently "Rails-y" (whether or not it is correct and whether or not it is faster than the "Rails-y" method that's causing them problems) is not great.
By the time you've gotten there though you've certainly more than figured out how method_missing and different filename based conventions work though, you've seen what Rails is and I'd be curious to find out what you like better!
I still use Ruby nontrivially for stuff like command line tools, though.
Rails is not like this. Rails is more like bridge where you have to learn the rules as well as this whole bidding system that fills a book before you can actually play the game.
There is no real magic in Rails, and once you learn the tricks yourself it becomes the most pleasant and productive ecosystem to work with that I've experienced. If you don't bother to learn though, it's going to be awful and slow and opaque.
By the way some of the good ideas in Ruby and Rails have made their way to PHP7 and recent versions of Laravel. So much has changed if your last PHP exposure was 12 years ago, it's not bad now.