Maybe it's because you can make it from mostly local ingredients and requires some skill to ensure it's made well. They also tend to exhibit an area's "soil characteristics imparted into flavor". It's more plebeian than snobbish wine so it exudes, in American vernacular, heartlandness.

Why do you hate beer?

;)

Breweries are God's/Cosmos' gift to us mortal, fallible, sinful men.