I don't think it's a lack of experience on your part. I worked with some people at MIT who were far better at Coq than I was, and they admitted the same thing. Coq proofs are unreadable, even when all the hypotheses and variables are given thoughtful names.
But, as you found, Coq proofs are not meant to be read; they are meant to be stepped through. I'm not sure if there is really a better alternative: if the formal proofs were made easier to read, they'd probably be much longer. And they can already get quite long compared to traditional paper proofs.
I think the right strategy is to break large developments into small lemmas, such that each proof is short and borderline obvious (similar to structuring a computer program to be self-documenting). Also, more experienced Coq users heavily invest in proof automation (building "tactics" in Coq) to make proofs short and sweet. I don't have much experience on that front, though.
So, a proof would be a pure function, taking a number of assumptions as arguments, and in order to write this proof you must first pass proofs of the assumptions to it as arguments (and then you can reference these proven assumptions in the body of the proof when needed).
"To give you an idea of what an actual proof looks like in Coq, below is a proof of one of the easier lemmas above. The proof is virtually impossible to read without stepping through it interactively, so don’t worry if it doesn’t make any sense to you here."
is why Coq is not one of my favorite tools.
A proof consists of two things: the "proof state"---a statement of what you know at a given point--and a sequence of "proof operations"---the manipaulations that move from one proof state to the next.
Most mathematical proofs you have ever seen have been presented as a list of proof states, with the operations either explained in comments or taken to be obvious.
Coq (and most other similar systems) present the proof as a sequence of proof operations, with the state invisible unless you're going through it in a Coq IDE.
On one hand, that's the same thing as a program: a Coq proof is a program for creating the proof. Unfortunately, on the other, I've never been able to read Coq proofs the way I can read programs. Probably a lack of experience, I guess.
On the other hand, Coq is a damn fun computer game.