I also really wish there was a useful way to turn AMP off - it very much interferes with my browsing habits.

I find messing with the user agent (mobile firefox plugin "phony" lets you pose as lynx, for example!) can be effective, and also I saw on a google products discussion page that using the url https://news.google.com/news/i#0 returns non-AMP results.

Why it can't just be a user option to disable it, I've no idea.