It's one thing to make a pint of icecream at home, at your own pace. It's another to product enough (and not too much) icecream in a restaurant's cuisine.

If the restaurant is high-end, the icecream should have the correct ingredients to pair with the other food.

Pastry making is often compared to an art... but then art doesn't pay much either.

that's fascinating, though I'm not into sweet things enough to invest in the required equipment.

I do agree with your overall point that chef's skills probably aren't specialized or difficult enough to command high wages in the long term.