When GTK3 and even Qt5 go user-unfriendly and dev-unfriendly ways, it's no wonder there's many immediate mode ui library projects that are popular or actively developed Haskell FLTK bindings.
https://www.freshports.org/x11-toolkits/gtk30 It's "lean" by default, you can't even make it "not lean".
They're big, but I wouldn't call them "user-unfriendly and dev-unfriendly". QML/QtQuick is the best GUI development thing ever.
P.S. I was building Firefox from ports for a while, just to get GTK3 support earlier than they turned it on by default :-P
For WM, I use i3. If you don't mind tiled, I'd highly reccomend it. It's great, the docs are great, and the config file is easy to understand, so after the base setup, you don't have to worry about it.
XFCE, TWM and sawfish are pretty cool, if you're not into tiled.
Yes, Tk just works for gui and is underappreciated.
wx's default backend is gtk (2 or 3) and they have an experimental Qt5 backend now, which is unsurprising given GTK3's state. So wx doesn't help, unless you can make the Qt backend work (Qt5 is so modular that it's often a pain).
GTK3 drags in way too much of gnome for comfort, but I don't want to drop all GTK3 apps, so I have to put up with it.