I'm personally working on Movim, a nice-looking "Social-IM" client fully based on XMPP (https://movim.eu/). The main goal of the project is to show that we have now all the tools to build a decentralized, standard and universal IM (and also social !) network without reinventing the wheel again and again.
You can have a look at our latest release-note as well https://pod.movim.eu/?node/pubsub.movim.eu/Movim/f5f883e3122... (this blog post has been published/edited using Movim and XMPP ;)).
And Movim is also compatible with Spectrum to offer interconnection with other networks ;)
Can you recommend a few? I haven't looked into XMPP in detail for a while, because the clients I've been using are "good enough and I didn't bother with mobile), but it seems like I'm missing out on good things ;)
For the desktop there is no real "modern" client yet, unfortunately. But I've ported Movim using Electron :) There is already a Ubuntu/Debian version and the package is here https://github.com/edhelas/movim_electron.
What about Spectrum http://spectrum.im/ ? I am successfully using Spectrum as gateway to Skype (except groupchats ATM, some bugfixing pending) and IRC from my XMPP client apps.
What about XMPP in the whole? It looked depressing few years ago, but times have changed, I can help you to catch up with nice novelties.