I wish more sites were plain html. You can do better, but it's easy to do a lot worse, to the point of unreadability.

I also hate the grey-on-grey, so I made a chrome extension to change it to black-on-white: https://github.com/bentrevor/emblacken. I found a gist with the js and de-obfuscated about half of it. It works on almost all sites.

Chrome lets you set keyboard shortcuts to run extensions, so I press it once to change to black text, and again to use a white background.